Archive for the ‘surprises’ Category

Matisse at the Thyssen

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

matisseYou may or may not know that Madrid has one of the finest reputations for art in the world, boasting its Golden Triangle of three of the top museums in the world, the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza.  Of the three, the last one is probably the least well-known but actually boasts an incredible collection made up of one of the largest private collections anywhere in the world.  

Through September 20, the Thyssen will be holding a special Matisse exhibition that really is a thrilling opportunity to see some wonderful art.  Matisse has always been my favorite artist of his period (maybe better left unsaid around these parts).  It has been getting great reviews and you should take the opportunity to get out of the heat and enjoy some beautiful art.  Here is the information on the exhibit from the wonderful city site:

 

The period covered by the exhibition is marked by the shadow of the First World War and the menace of the second one, a phase of great importance as regards the dissemination and consolidation of modern art, in which Matisse played a crucial role.

The exhibition intends to show how the artist expanded the scope of his pictorial investigation during this period, focusing on the relation between drawing, colour, volume and space. After Cubism changed the traditional way in which perspective was represented, Matisse decided to make his own interpretation of space in painting. Although during the previous ten years his work had been characterised by flatness, at this point he started showing interest in the weight, density and depth of the figures.

  • Starting: 06/09/2009
  • Ending: 09/20/2009
  • Where: Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
  • Resting day: Monday
  • Ticket sales: Advance ticket sales at Museum ticket office; www.museothyssen.org/entrada; www.entradas.com; Tel: 902 488 488.
  • Schedule: Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 7pm; closed on Monday. During July and August, Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 11pm.
  • Price: General admission to the permanent collection, EUR6; reduced admission, EUR4. Matisse (1917-1942) exhibition, general admission, EUR5; reduced admission, EUR3.50. General admission for both exhibitions, EUR9; reduced admission, EUR5. Reduced admission for students and over 65s. Free admission for under 12s.

Everyone is Gay in Madrid This Weekend

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

tour-infinita-2009Madrid’s Gay Pride weekend is well underway following last night’s grand opening.  The opening night festivities were held at 4 different stages in plazas surrounding the general Chueca neighborhood area (the gayest neighborhood in Europe).  The craziest and most crowded part of the festival was the main stage in Plaza Chueca.  You simply couldn’t move.  I was lucky enough to get back stage and have a little breathing room from the crowd, but what a fun time everyone seemed to be having!  I’ve been on main stages in different sorts of festivals before, but what was amazing here was that the crowd actually listened to the speakers and participated with the music, dancing, and general craziness.  Madrid really knows how to throw a party.  One of my ongoing complaints about the city government is what a terrible job they doing letting people know about what a great LGBT destination Madrid is.  

Later we went to Plaza del Rey for the cultural festival portion of the festivities (this is where I finally got to practice my Spanish in front of an audience).  There was a much smaller crowd and a really pleasant atmosphere.  Afterwards, we had dinner with LGBT activists and leaders from around the country at the very nice Jardin restaurant.  

Tonight, the party continues.  The Madonna-directed documentary will be premiering for the first time in Spain and tomorrow comes Mr Gay Spain.  I have back stage passes for both events, so I’ll let you know how it goes.  

There is so much going on all week in the Chueca and surrounding area that you really should check out the official site, or the city’s official information page, available in English.  Find out about the high heel race, the month-long cultural festival, and the chill out planned in the Parque de Buen Retiro.  And if you like diva pop, you should check out Kyle Minogue at Ventas, the bullring not far from the very center of the city.  

Gay or straight, this is all stuff you should not miss as a tourist in Madrid.  It can be argued that Madrid puts on one of the best of these sorts of celebrations anywhere in the world.  Even the National Geographic couldn’t miss the wonder that is Pride Madrid:

It boasts Western Europe’s largest Royal Palace and its most audacious gay pride parade

The amazing this is that it is all done without any money from the city or provincial governments for a relatively small amount of money, around 300,000 euros.  

The big day will be Saturday of course, for the parade and festival.  I’ve not had a chance to spend much time with my friends, but I do hope to get to be with them to watch the parade.  I hope you will be joining us.

It’s Friday, 100 degrees, Madrid. It’s Gonna a Be a Fun Night

Friday, June 12th, 2009

botellonIt is the first really hot day of the Spring in Madrid today. The weekend will continue the heat wave. And, yes, a dry heat does make a difference.

Madrid is interesting when it is hot. My apartment is actually pretty cool in temperature, I have an interior unit without a lot of sunlight and it just hasn’t heated up that much. So, I, like many in the city who can, will work from home today. Since my day generally includes talking to India in the AM, Spain in afternoon, and the US and Paraguay later in the day, the schlep to the office on a day like this is a nice option. Not sure my boss likes that I take it, but its effing 100 degrees!

So when I went out with the dog to buy the paper and a pack of smokes, the streets were pretty quiet. There is a distinct difference in the shade. But tonight is when the streets will be alive.

I still remember my first time in Madrid about 6 years ago. It was a day like this, and I had arrived late in the afternoon by train from Malaga. I took a nap. The city streets were pretty empty at 7 PM, but when I woke up at 2 AM and looked out the window, the streets had come alive. Like rush hour anywhere else in the world.

Tonight there will be people out all over the streets. There will be botellones in the plazas. Botellones are (illegal) outside drinking parties, mostly youth, who are getting blasted early in the evening so that they can save their money to go to the dance clubs later at night. The clubs really won’t start hopping until about 4 AM. Restaurants will be full from 10 or 11 PM onward, filled with families, including babies and toddlers. The entire city will be out and strolling.

Fuencarral Street, a fashionable and hip street near the gay neighborhood is being turned into a pedestrian only zone and is almost done. So a lot of people will be out there too.

I will be with the crowds. Sweating, walking, bringing the dog, swigging a beer on a terraza and being thankful for a perfect madrid night like this.

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

The Canary Islands, Popular Summers for the Madrilenos

Friday, June 5th, 2009

CANARIAS TIMELAPSE from luis garcia de armas on Vimeo.

Spanish as a Foreign Language

Saturday, May 30th, 2009

As a recent resident of Madrid (8 months!), I still struggle with my Spanish everyday.  But it is improving in leaps and bounds.  Spain is a wonderful place to learn the language.  Here is a good summary from the city’s web site:

Madrid, a cosmopolitan city, a city with an open character and a meeting point of different nationalities and cultures. That’s Madrid, the world capital of the Spanish language, a language that is becoming more and more essential throughout all disciplines. Students from around the world find Madrid an exceptional place to learn a language that is already spoken by more than 400 million people worldwide.

Exhibitions, shows and an endless array of artistic initiatives and leisure activities (shopping, dining out,clubbing) help those who visit Madrid to improve their linguistic skills and increase their knowledge of the Spanish culture. Madrid is the financial capital of Spain, and as such, offers numerous professional training programmes in some of its leading companies. Furthermore, it is home to some of the most renowned institutions aimed at nurturing and promoting the Spanish language, such as the National Library or the Cervantes Institute. The latter bears the name of the author of Don Quixote, who lived in the very city and where he put the finishing touches to his great masterpiece. His birthplace, Alcalá de Henares, is just a few kilometres away, and is today a World Heritage Site. Just one of the many reasons to choose Madrid as your language learning destination.

Students in MadridLiterary Madrid

A source of inspiration for many generations of writers, Madrid is not just reflected in it streets, but also in all those books which have made it the protagonist, described it and told its story, as though it were a tale, novel or drama. Spanish is the city’s most valuable heritage, yet it is also fair to say that Madrid is the heritage of its own language. This makes the capital the ideal place to learn Spanish. Below, we list a series of institutions which are an essential part of Spanish culture.

    

The National Library

Centre in charge of identifying, preserving, conserving and disseminating Spain’s literary heritage.

Café Gijón

Olde worlde café that first opened its doors in 1888 and is the last great literary café, par excellence, in Madrid and a local haunt for celebrities from the worlds of art and literature.

The Cervantes Institute

State-funded Institution, created in 1991 to promote and disseminate the culture of Spain and the teaching of Spanish.

Círculo de Bellas Artes (Circle of Fine Arts)

Founded in 1880, it is a private cultural entity with a non-profit status and ‘Centre and Public Utility for the Protection of Fine Arts’. It is a multidisciplinary centre that promotes activities that embrace everything from the fine arts to literature including science, philosophy, cinema and the scenic arts.

El Ateneo

A private cultural institution founded in 1835 as a scientific-literary cultural association.

Lope de Vega House and Museum

17th Century dwelling purchased by Lope de Vega in 1610 where he lived his latter years.

Sociedad Cervantina

Society devoted to the study of the work of the author of Don Quixote. In fact, it is headquartered on the same lot where Juan de Cuesta had his printing press and where the first part of the novel was published in 1604.  

Real Academia Española (Royal Spanish Academy)

“Limpia, fija y da esplendor” (Cleans, fixes and gives splendour). This is the motto of the RAE, whose main task, since 1713, has been to ensure and watch over the evolution and correction of the Castilian language.

The Cariátides BuildingThe Madrid Tourism Board programme, Discover Madrid, includes an interesting stroll through the Literary Quarter, home to LiteratiMuses and Parnassus, where internationally acclaimed writers such as Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Quevedo or Góngora, as well as thespians and other peoples from the world of strolling players, blended together to create a singular atmosphere during the Spanish Golden Age.

The Cervantes Institute

The Cariátides Building (Alcalá, 49) is home to the central offices of the Cervantes Institute. With more than 60 centres located worldwide, it is the public institution that deals with the promotion and teaching of the Spanish language as well as the promotion of the culture of both Spain and other Spanish speaking countries. An aim it has in common with the Professional Association of Spanish Schools of Madrid (AEEEM), and the Spanish Federation of Associations of Spanish Schools for Foreigners (FEDELE)  that together guarantee the prestige and integrity of the sector.

If you wish to learn Spanish in Madrid, here is a list of organizations that may be helpful.

A Night of Zarzuela

Friday, April 24th, 2009

I had the wonderful chance to see the last rehearsal of Una Noche de Zarzuela last night, and recommend you go if you enjoy operetta.

According to Wikipedia

Zarzuela (pronounced [θarˈθwela] in Spain, [sarˈswela] in Latin America), is a Spanish lyric-dramatic genre that alternates between spoken and sung scenes, the latter incorporating operatic and popular song, as well as dance. The name derives from a Royal hunting lodge, the Palacio de la Zarzuela near Madrid, where this type of entertainment was first presented to the court.

There are two main forms of zarzuela: Baroque zarzuela (c.1630–1750), the earliest style, and Romantic zarzuela (c.1850–1950), which can be further divided into two. main sub-genres of género grande and género chico although other sub-divisions exist.

¡Una noche de Zarzuela…! (Operetta night!) (click for ticket sales) is a lyric dream in two acts with songs by the greatest composers in the history of Spanish operetta. Some of them are Asenjo Barbieri, T. Bretón, R. Chapí, F. Chueca, Fernández Caballero, G. Giménez, J. Guerrero, P. Luna, V. Lleó, Moreno Torroba.

With Luis Olmos as scene director and singers like Carlos Bergasa, Susana Cordón, Manuel de Diego, Vicente Díez, and the actress Esperanza Roy, this penultimate production of the season at Teatro de la Zarzuela includes a libretto by Olmos and Bernardo Sánchez.

The plot of ¡Una noche de Zarzuela…! (Operetta night!) takes place in 1941, during the Spanish post-war period, when a company of operetta singers led by Úrsula Caravia struggles to stage an operetta show: an anthology of famous songs by well-known Spanish composers. An adventure in which the protagonists try to survive and please a Maecenas whose decisions will outline their future.

The theater is beautiful and the only theater in the world specially designed for Zarzuela.  The dancing is not to be missed.  And you will recognize some of the music.  It´s a pretty good time.

Easter in Madrid

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

While less known than its southern neighbor, Sevilla, for its processions and events surrounding Holy Week (Santa Semana), it is a terrific time to be in Madrid.  Many of the Madrileños will have left as part of Operacíon Salida (Operation Exit) as they head for the beaches for the holiday.  Many are taking the entire week of from work.  Most offices in Madrid are closed Thursday and Friday.

Here are some of the things to watch for this weekend:

Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday or Maundy Thursday)

Perhaps one of the most spectacular moments of Easter weeks occurs on Holy Thursday. This takes place at Calle Toledo, 37, at around 7.30 to 8pm at the Colegiata de San Isidro. The religious images of the Virgin Maria Santísima de la Esperanza and Jesús del Gran Poder are brought out of the church by the “costaleros” and through the main door. To do this, they have to get down almost on their knees to slowly make their way through, an immense effort which is noisily rewarded with much applause and shouts of encouragement from the watching crowds.

The processions of Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno, El Pobre, and María Santísima del Dulce Nombre leave Church of San Pedro in Calle Nuncio at around 7pm, and the image “El Divino Cautivo” is paraded from the Colegio Calasancio in Calle General Díaz Porlier, 58.

Viernes Santo (Good Friday)

Good Friday brings perhaps the most emblematic religious procession for Madrid, that of Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno, which leaves the Basílica del Cristo de Medinaceli in the Plaza de Jesús at around 7pm and parades central streets including the Puerta de Sol and Plaza Cibeles.

The “Procesión del Silencio” or Procession of Silence starts from the Church of Santísimo Cristo de la Fé in Calle Atocha 87 and the Ayuntamiento or City Hall organises its own procession called the Santo Entierro which leaves the Parish Church of Santa Cruz in Atocha, 6 with the image of Lignum Crucis.

Sábado Santo (Holy Saturday)

The procession of “Nuestra Señora de la Soledad” leaves the Corpus Christi Monastery at around 4:30pm.

Domingo Santo (Easter Sunday)

The main event on Easter Sunday takes place at mid-day in the Plaza Mayor. This is the “Tamborada del Domingo de Resurección“, whereby whichever Brotherhood has been chosen for the year, assembles dozens of drums of all shapes and sizes and beats out a constant rhythm which almost shakes the timbers of the nearby houses. This represents the earth tremors that were supposed to have occurred when Christ died on the cross.Jesus el Pobre, Madrid

Carmen in Madrid

Friday, March 20th, 2009

The famous story of Carmen is retold through the flamenco dancing style of Cadiz-born Sara Baras in this production in Madrid,

which exudes truth and passion and which sees a very different character to the one created by Bizet or Mérimée: a much braver and resolute woman, who expresses herself in the profound language only flamenco speaks. At Teatro Lope de Vega, starting on February 13.

The famous dancer is also the director.  Take a look:

This is Not the News

Friday, March 6th, 2009

Estas no son las noticias is a program on Spanish television. It´s a news satire and can be pretty cutting, but is also at times really silly. Like the segments De Cari a Cari. Hysterical. “Qué tal!

¨

The Terrazas Are Here

Tuesday, February 24th, 2009

The weather has been so beautiful for the last couple of weeks. While walking down Calle Montero towards the Plaza de Sol, I noticed that some of the tables are back out on the streets. It made me feel happy to think about the upcoming Spring. Nothing beats a beautiful dusk sitting with a beer and chatting with friends al fresco.

This from a New York Times article about terrazas in Madrid:

“Terrazas,” said Jesús, a teacher who sees them as quintessential Madrid, “are for talking, not tourism.”

And it’s very true.  I feel most at home in Madrid when I’m sitting at a table in one of the plazas or streets of the city.  The best is on a Sunday afternoon in the La Latina neighborhood.