Archive for the ‘living in Spain’ Category

Madrid de los Austrias

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

925016I’ve been living the last seven or so months in the Center of the city, mere steps away from Gran Via between Plaza Calloa and Cibeles.  It’s a great neighborhood being well-connected to all the mass transport and within walking distance to almost all of the better known tourist areas of Madrid.  But it does have its downsides.  It is very crowded and as the summer months have worn on, some of the sleazier streets near my home have become rich in the odor of urine and the number prostitutes have grown like wild flowers.  It is also not the best neighborhood to have a dog.  My globe trotting fellow has gotten into the terrible habit of spending most of his walk time searching for discarded food like some rat weaving back and forth eating anything in his past.  It’s pretty disgusting.  

So we are moving to a new neighborhood today.  We have a larger apartment with a balcony and plenty of parks nearby.  It is still in the Center of Madrid, but in a slightly quieter area.  We will be within walking distance to the Latina neighborhood where Sundays are a blast.  The streets are full of terrazas and everyone is out for tapas and beer.

The neighborhood is called Madrid de los Austrias (or the Madrid of the Habsburgs).  This area is famous for its architecture and the growth of the Spanish Capital during its Golden Age.  The most famous construct being the Plaza Mayor.  The streets are narrow, the restaurants old, and the parks beautiful.  We will be right on the outskirts of the area, near the Royal Palace.  In fact, I’ll be able to see the Cathedral on the Royal Grounds from my balcony. 

I’ll let you know how it goes, and what the neighborhood is like as time goes on.

Heat Wave Continues in Madrid

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

 

Always another option for cooling down

Always another option for cooling down

The weather in the Spanish capital continues to run hotter than usual.  Normal temperatures at this time of year are in the low 80s.  We have consistently been in the mid to upper 90s.  The daily sunshine is bright and strong and their is little relief at night.  There are times when one would kill for a bit of a breeze.  So what to do in this kind of heat, especially during the parties and festivities of Madrid’s Orgullo Festival.  

I’ve learned to dress much more appropriately for the heat.  The typical American wardrobe of a pair of blue jeans and maybe a polo shirt or t-shirt just is too warm and uncomfortable.  You really need to find very light and very breathable clothing.  Light cotton, linen, and hats can be terrifically helpful.  I have even gone full bore European and wear what some might call Capri pants (the 3/4 length pants that are seen all over the place).  Why do you wear them, well, it’s cooler!

Gay Pride Week in Spain

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009

I returned from San Francisco a couple of days ago.  I had a wonderful time with friends (really, they are my family) and loved seeing the city.  I also got to do a little bit of work for this fabulous company I work for that is going to change the world.  It was looking festive and beautiful for Gay Pride Week.  I missed the parade becuase I had to get back here for some work.  But I ran smack dab into another Pride Festival.  You can read about Gay Pride in Madrid in this New York Times article.  The Madrileños do know how to party.

It felt strange being in SF again, like I had never left and like I had been away for years.  I´ve only been gone less than a year, so I suppose that is not a strange feeling, but Madrid does feel like home right now.  Who knows, if my visa is not renewed, I may be back in a few months anyway!

I came back to Madrid to see my friend Stuart Milk, who, as most of you know, is the nephew of Harvey Milk.  Stuart was swinging back to the US after opening gay pride in Istanbul.  Apparently the city had brought out the riot police and street tanks to stop the parade, but it was finally allowed to continue.  Congrats to Stuart on his courage and leadership.  Stuart is being slammed with interview requests from all over Madrid and Europe, so we have done almost no touring, but I am glad I was able to hook him up with the media here.  It´s very important that the message that Harvey carried continues today.

If you can read Spanish, here is the link to the El Pais story on Stuart.  Tonight he will be receiving the Muestra T award and I will be giving my first gay rights speech in Spanish (very short).  I am so used to doing speeches and television, but in another language, it will be interesting to see how it feels.  Barcelona and the rest of the country had their parties last weekend, but Madrid is this week.  It is one of the biggest in the world, with more than 1,000,000 participants (compared to 60,000 in Barcelona).  If you don´t think of Madrid as an LGBT tourist spot, you really should.

It’s Friday, 100 degrees, Madrid. It’s Gonna a Be a Fun Night

Friday, June 12th, 2009

botellonIt is the first really hot day of the Spring in Madrid today. The weekend will continue the heat wave. And, yes, a dry heat does make a difference.

Madrid is interesting when it is hot. My apartment is actually pretty cool in temperature, I have an interior unit without a lot of sunlight and it just hasn’t heated up that much. So, I, like many in the city who can, will work from home today. Since my day generally includes talking to India in the AM, Spain in afternoon, and the US and Paraguay later in the day, the schlep to the office on a day like this is a nice option. Not sure my boss likes that I take it, but its effing 100 degrees!

So when I went out with the dog to buy the paper and a pack of smokes, the streets were pretty quiet. There is a distinct difference in the shade. But tonight is when the streets will be alive.

I still remember my first time in Madrid about 6 years ago. It was a day like this, and I had arrived late in the afternoon by train from Malaga. I took a nap. The city streets were pretty empty at 7 PM, but when I woke up at 2 AM and looked out the window, the streets had come alive. Like rush hour anywhere else in the world.

Tonight there will be people out all over the streets. There will be botellones in the plazas. Botellones are (illegal) outside drinking parties, mostly youth, who are getting blasted early in the evening so that they can save their money to go to the dance clubs later at night. The clubs really won’t start hopping until about 4 AM. Restaurants will be full from 10 or 11 PM onward, filled with families, including babies and toddlers. The entire city will be out and strolling.

Fuencarral Street, a fashionable and hip street near the gay neighborhood is being turned into a pedestrian only zone and is almost done. So a lot of people will be out there too.

I will be with the crowds. Sweating, walking, bringing the dog, swigging a beer on a terraza and being thankful for a perfect madrid night like this.

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

A Spanish Film Market for the LGBT Community Will Kick off this Year

Monday, June 8th, 2009

picphpFrom the wonderful people at the LesGaiCineMad International Film Festival, one of the best in the world (disclosure: I am doing some work for them)

LesGaiCineMad Spanish Film Market (SFM) is an event that will take place for the first time as part of Madrid’s 14th International LGBT Film Festival (LesGaiCineMad)

LESGAICINEMAD IS BECOMING A STRONG PRESENCE WITHIN THE INDUSTRY AND IS CATCHING UP WITH THE LEADERS IN THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET

Organized by Fundación Triángulo, LesGaiCineMad is one of the world’s most important independent film festivals, clearly positioned on the map of international festivals and events related to the 7th Art. With 14 years of professional history, 9 venues, and 120 movies, LesGaiCineMad will for the first time bring together members of the international LGBT film industry in a space of exchange, education, and business that will take place at LesGaiCineMad Spanish Film Market (SFM), coordinated by Spanish director Mariel Macia.

This first edition of Spanish Film Market (SFM) is born with the objective of supporting and promoting the production of independent cinema. “The international industry has been with us,” says Mariel Maciá, head of Industry & Market at LesGaiCineMad, “in each edition for the last 14 years. We believe that acknowledging their presence, haviing independent LGBT cinema professionals mix and network to create new projects and business, and structuring their visit so that they share their experience and knowledge with Spanish directors is the next step that our festival should take.” A logical evolution if we consider that LesGaiCineMad yearly attracts over 20,000 viewers and directors from all over the world; a circumstance that in previous editions made it possible to count on the presence of respected figures such as Pedro Almodóvar, Bruce LaBruce, and Barbara Hammer among others. Following the San Sebastián, Valladolid and Sitges’ film festivals, LesGaiCineMad is one of the cinematographic events with the most media coverage.

Mariel Macia, who has recently joined the festival team to accomplish new objectives, is a movie and theater director, producer, and distributor who has won several awards and international recognition. Since her short film “Flores en el parque” opened at LesGaiCineMad’s 2006 edition obtaining the Best Short Film and Best Spanish Movie Awards, her work has been featured at film festivals around the world, making her one of LGBT cinema’s role models. Later, with the opening of “A domicilio (o incluso también el amor)” and obtaining her second Best Short Film Award at LesGaiCineMad the next year, Mariel has had the opportunity to travel the world through the presentation of her work at LGBT film festivals which has given her the contacts, hope, and ambition to translate her experience into the local market.

For this first edition, LesGaiCineMad Spanish Film Market (SFM) will get important filmmakers, distributors, and programmers together.

1. SFM will provide its participants a selection of Spanish movies produced from 2006 to today, in DVD format with English subtitles. The same movies will also be viewable at SFM Booths – located at the SFM Meeting Point. The films participating in the official selection of the Festival will also be available.
2. SFM will organize debates, seminars and meetings with renowned international professionals dedicated to the production and distribution of LGBT contents.
3. SFM will create a meeting point (SFM Meeting Point) where all participants will meet, organize reunions and see movies at SFM Booths.

All these activities will be presented at Frameline 2009, the San Francisco LGBT Film Festival, to give this project its initial boost.

Independent cinema is growing strongly. Throughout these years it has obtained a privileged place within the national and international scene and also a bigger sector within the actual cinematographic market. The movie industry is transforming and adapting to the new times finding the niches that have been exploited in the international market for a long time. As a response to these challenges, LesGaiCineMad has created this new platform to promote and professionalize the LGBT independent cinema in the framework of its 14th edition.

Partido Popular (Center-Right) Gains in European Parliament

Monday, June 8th, 2009
Partido Popular leader Mariano Rajoy

Partido Popular leader Mariano Rajoy

Turn out was low by Spanish standards for the European Parliament elections, seen by some as a test of how well the government would fare in a deep recession.  The center right party, Partido Popular (People´s Party) beat the ruling Socialist Party by just under 4%.  The PP gained 1 more seat than before and only 1% higher percentage of the vote from the last EU election.  The PSOE socialists lost 5% and 4 seats.

Center Right parties won all over Europe in an election marked by low turn-out and fought more on national issues than European issues.  For many Europeans the Parliament is distint and misunderstood.

The PP leader Mariano Rajoy needed to do well in this election to continue support for his leadership, and the party is celebrating, though it does not seem to be a particularly impressive win, given the depth of the Spanish recession, whose unemployment is the highest of all the major European economies.

Socialist leader José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero lost nearly 500,000 votes from the last EU election, but does not appear to be fatally wounded by the election results.  It is the first victory for Mariano Rajoy in a national election agains Prime Minister Zapatero since 2000.

Apartment Hunting

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

I despise looking for a new apartment in any country.  It’s not so bad here.  There is a great site called www.idealista.com that has a wide selection of apartments and houses for sale, rent, or share.  It’s a little like Craigslist without the erotic services.  

It used to be, during the boom years in housing in Spain that you had to have a year’s worth of rent in your bank account to get a lease.  Those days seem long gone.  At the most now, someone might ask for 4 months.  This is in addition to any deposit or finanza they might require.  Fortunately now most only ask for one or two months of deposit and no bank account minimum.  

You do need to learn the different words for the different types of places.  I’ll try to help, though of course there are some crossover and people may use some of the words more loosely than others:

  • piso = a flat, apartment, a place with a living room and bedroom(s)
  • habitacion = room for rent, usually sharing and apartment
  • apartamento = usually a studio with enough space to have a bed area separate from a living area, but probably one room
  • duplex = a piso with more than one floor
  • atico = the top floor apartment
  • bajo = the bottom floor (or in the US, the first floor)
  • estudio = a studio apartment, one room.

I looked at an atico piso today where the roof is angled and at the highest point in any room the ceiling was no higher than 6 feet high.  Most of the space was as low as 3 feet high.  Great location, but I hurt my head three times just looking at it.

Spanish Unemployment Drops, Consumer Confidence Rises

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009
Unemployment lines in Spain

Unemployment lines in Spain

All the Spanish dailies are covering the story that after 14 months of increases in the unemployment rate, the most recent numbers have dropped by more than 29,000 people. Most give credit to the government´s stimulus package, Plan E, about which, as I´ve mentioned before, signs are ubiquitious.

Additionally the rise in consumer confidence is a good sign for the Spanish economy and the government has used similar language to that in the Unites States, saying that there are “green shoots.” There is hope that the economy has hit the bottom. Spain has been among the hardest hit in Europe and absolutely the hardest hit of the major European economies. The opposition party, the Popular Party, has said that the green shoots represent only the marijuana that the government is smoking.

All this comes just days before the European Council Elections.

A perfect day in Madrid…

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009

This is a wonderful neighborhood to explore.  From this spot you can see the Royal Palace, the Opera House, the Gardens, and some beautiful statues of the Kings and Queens of Spain.  It is a lively and crowded place most of the time.  I think it is even more beautiful in the evening as the sun is going down.  

The Eastern Plaza (Plaza Oriente) accross from the Royal Palace

The Eastern Plaza (Plaza Oriente) accross from the Royal Palace

Spanish as a Foreign Language

Saturday, May 30th, 2009

As a recent resident of Madrid (8 months!), I still struggle with my Spanish everyday.  But it is improving in leaps and bounds.  Spain is a wonderful place to learn the language.  Here is a good summary from the city’s web site:

Madrid, a cosmopolitan city, a city with an open character and a meeting point of different nationalities and cultures. That’s Madrid, the world capital of the Spanish language, a language that is becoming more and more essential throughout all disciplines. Students from around the world find Madrid an exceptional place to learn a language that is already spoken by more than 400 million people worldwide.

Exhibitions, shows and an endless array of artistic initiatives and leisure activities (shopping, dining out,clubbing) help those who visit Madrid to improve their linguistic skills and increase their knowledge of the Spanish culture. Madrid is the financial capital of Spain, and as such, offers numerous professional training programmes in some of its leading companies. Furthermore, it is home to some of the most renowned institutions aimed at nurturing and promoting the Spanish language, such as the National Library or the Cervantes Institute. The latter bears the name of the author of Don Quixote, who lived in the very city and where he put the finishing touches to his great masterpiece. His birthplace, Alcalá de Henares, is just a few kilometres away, and is today a World Heritage Site. Just one of the many reasons to choose Madrid as your language learning destination.

Students in MadridLiterary Madrid

A source of inspiration for many generations of writers, Madrid is not just reflected in it streets, but also in all those books which have made it the protagonist, described it and told its story, as though it were a tale, novel or drama. Spanish is the city’s most valuable heritage, yet it is also fair to say that Madrid is the heritage of its own language. This makes the capital the ideal place to learn Spanish. Below, we list a series of institutions which are an essential part of Spanish culture.

    

The National Library

Centre in charge of identifying, preserving, conserving and disseminating Spain’s literary heritage.

Café Gijón

Olde worlde café that first opened its doors in 1888 and is the last great literary café, par excellence, in Madrid and a local haunt for celebrities from the worlds of art and literature.

The Cervantes Institute

State-funded Institution, created in 1991 to promote and disseminate the culture of Spain and the teaching of Spanish.

Círculo de Bellas Artes (Circle of Fine Arts)

Founded in 1880, it is a private cultural entity with a non-profit status and ‘Centre and Public Utility for the Protection of Fine Arts’. It is a multidisciplinary centre that promotes activities that embrace everything from the fine arts to literature including science, philosophy, cinema and the scenic arts.

El Ateneo

A private cultural institution founded in 1835 as a scientific-literary cultural association.

Lope de Vega House and Museum

17th Century dwelling purchased by Lope de Vega in 1610 where he lived his latter years.

Sociedad Cervantina

Society devoted to the study of the work of the author of Don Quixote. In fact, it is headquartered on the same lot where Juan de Cuesta had his printing press and where the first part of the novel was published in 1604.  

Real Academia Española (Royal Spanish Academy)

“Limpia, fija y da esplendor” (Cleans, fixes and gives splendour). This is the motto of the RAE, whose main task, since 1713, has been to ensure and watch over the evolution and correction of the Castilian language.

The Cariátides BuildingThe Madrid Tourism Board programme, Discover Madrid, includes an interesting stroll through the Literary Quarter, home to LiteratiMuses and Parnassus, where internationally acclaimed writers such as Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Quevedo or Góngora, as well as thespians and other peoples from the world of strolling players, blended together to create a singular atmosphere during the Spanish Golden Age.

The Cervantes Institute

The Cariátides Building (Alcalá, 49) is home to the central offices of the Cervantes Institute. With more than 60 centres located worldwide, it is the public institution that deals with the promotion and teaching of the Spanish language as well as the promotion of the culture of both Spain and other Spanish speaking countries. An aim it has in common with the Professional Association of Spanish Schools of Madrid (AEEEM), and the Spanish Federation of Associations of Spanish Schools for Foreigners (FEDELE)  that together guarantee the prestige and integrity of the sector.

If you wish to learn Spanish in Madrid, here is a list of organizations that may be helpful.