Archive for the ‘neighborhoods’ Category

Madrid de los Austrias

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

925016I’ve been living the last seven or so months in the Center of the city, mere steps away from Gran Via between Plaza Calloa and Cibeles.  It’s a great neighborhood being well-connected to all the mass transport and within walking distance to almost all of the better known tourist areas of Madrid.  But it does have its downsides.  It is very crowded and as the summer months have worn on, some of the sleazier streets near my home have become rich in the odor of urine and the number prostitutes have grown like wild flowers.  It is also not the best neighborhood to have a dog.  My globe trotting fellow has gotten into the terrible habit of spending most of his walk time searching for discarded food like some rat weaving back and forth eating anything in his past.  It’s pretty disgusting.  

So we are moving to a new neighborhood today.  We have a larger apartment with a balcony and plenty of parks nearby.  It is still in the Center of Madrid, but in a slightly quieter area.  We will be within walking distance to the Latina neighborhood where Sundays are a blast.  The streets are full of terrazas and everyone is out for tapas and beer.

The neighborhood is called Madrid de los Austrias (or the Madrid of the Habsburgs).  This area is famous for its architecture and the growth of the Spanish Capital during its Golden Age.  The most famous construct being the Plaza Mayor.  The streets are narrow, the restaurants old, and the parks beautiful.  We will be right on the outskirts of the area, near the Royal Palace.  In fact, I’ll be able to see the Cathedral on the Royal Grounds from my balcony. 

I’ll let you know how it goes, and what the neighborhood is like as time goes on.

City Hall in Madrid to Contribute 500,000 Euros to LGBT Tourism Next Year

Saturday, July 4th, 2009

As I stated a couple of days ago, one of Madrid’s great failings, in my mind, has been its failure to promote itself as an LGBT destination.  Many claim that it is because of political and ideological reasons.  The City and the Community (province) of Madrid are fairly conservative politically, and the Popular Party holds the strings of power.  But Madrid should take advantage of its opportunity.  It is perfectly designed to be one of the best destinations in the world.  The night life, the Chueca neighborhood, and its general festive atmosphere make it a great place year round, but especially during the Pride Festival. 

El Pais reports on the week say that most hotels in the Centro are filled and that many are reporting that up to 80% of the visitors are gay.  As the paper says, it may be that the city has finally seen the “vein” of cash.  So in next year’s budget will be some 500,000 euros set aside to promote LGBT tourism.  Here is part of the story in Spanish:

Muchos se quejan de que la Comunidad y el Ayuntamiento nunca han promovido estas fiestas ni el turismo gay por razones ideológicas. Pero debe ser que los políticos madrileños han visto el filón, porque este año Comunidad y Ayuntamiento ambos han firmado un acuerdo de colaboración para que el año que viene haya medio millón de euros de dinero público con el fin de promocionar este tipo de turismo. El presupuesto con el que contaba este año la Asociación de Empresas y Profesionales para Gays y Lesbianas de Madrid, la encargada de este cometido, era solo de 30.000 euros.

También los organismos han colaborado en hacer un hueco a esta asociación en las ferias de turismo de numerosas capitales mundiales, aunque la promoción todavía debe mejorar. Casi todos los extranjeros con los que ha hablado este diario, como Patrick y Allen, una pareja de tortolitos checos, conocen el evento a través de páginas no oficiales de la Red, o a través de amigos, como en el caso de Luc Van Dam, un holandés cuyo ex novio español le mantenía siempre informado.

 

Everyone is Gay in Madrid This Weekend

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

tour-infinita-2009Madrid’s Gay Pride weekend is well underway following last night’s grand opening.  The opening night festivities were held at 4 different stages in plazas surrounding the general Chueca neighborhood area (the gayest neighborhood in Europe).  The craziest and most crowded part of the festival was the main stage in Plaza Chueca.  You simply couldn’t move.  I was lucky enough to get back stage and have a little breathing room from the crowd, but what a fun time everyone seemed to be having!  I’ve been on main stages in different sorts of festivals before, but what was amazing here was that the crowd actually listened to the speakers and participated with the music, dancing, and general craziness.  Madrid really knows how to throw a party.  One of my ongoing complaints about the city government is what a terrible job they doing letting people know about what a great LGBT destination Madrid is.  

Later we went to Plaza del Rey for the cultural festival portion of the festivities (this is where I finally got to practice my Spanish in front of an audience).  There was a much smaller crowd and a really pleasant atmosphere.  Afterwards, we had dinner with LGBT activists and leaders from around the country at the very nice Jardin restaurant.  

Tonight, the party continues.  The Madonna-directed documentary will be premiering for the first time in Spain and tomorrow comes Mr Gay Spain.  I have back stage passes for both events, so I’ll let you know how it goes.  

There is so much going on all week in the Chueca and surrounding area that you really should check out the official site, or the city’s official information page, available in English.  Find out about the high heel race, the month-long cultural festival, and the chill out planned in the Parque de Buen Retiro.  And if you like diva pop, you should check out Kyle Minogue at Ventas, the bullring not far from the very center of the city.  

Gay or straight, this is all stuff you should not miss as a tourist in Madrid.  It can be argued that Madrid puts on one of the best of these sorts of celebrations anywhere in the world.  Even the National Geographic couldn’t miss the wonder that is Pride Madrid:

It boasts Western Europe’s largest Royal Palace and its most audacious gay pride parade

The amazing this is that it is all done without any money from the city or provincial governments for a relatively small amount of money, around 300,000 euros.  

The big day will be Saturday of course, for the parade and festival.  I’ve not had a chance to spend much time with my friends, but I do hope to get to be with them to watch the parade.  I hope you will be joining us.

Gay Pride Week in Spain

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009

I returned from San Francisco a couple of days ago.  I had a wonderful time with friends (really, they are my family) and loved seeing the city.  I also got to do a little bit of work for this fabulous company I work for that is going to change the world.  It was looking festive and beautiful for Gay Pride Week.  I missed the parade becuase I had to get back here for some work.  But I ran smack dab into another Pride Festival.  You can read about Gay Pride in Madrid in this New York Times article.  The Madrileños do know how to party.

It felt strange being in SF again, like I had never left and like I had been away for years.  I´ve only been gone less than a year, so I suppose that is not a strange feeling, but Madrid does feel like home right now.  Who knows, if my visa is not renewed, I may be back in a few months anyway!

I came back to Madrid to see my friend Stuart Milk, who, as most of you know, is the nephew of Harvey Milk.  Stuart was swinging back to the US after opening gay pride in Istanbul.  Apparently the city had brought out the riot police and street tanks to stop the parade, but it was finally allowed to continue.  Congrats to Stuart on his courage and leadership.  Stuart is being slammed with interview requests from all over Madrid and Europe, so we have done almost no touring, but I am glad I was able to hook him up with the media here.  It´s very important that the message that Harvey carried continues today.

If you can read Spanish, here is the link to the El Pais story on Stuart.  Tonight he will be receiving the Muestra T award and I will be giving my first gay rights speech in Spanish (very short).  I am so used to doing speeches and television, but in another language, it will be interesting to see how it feels.  Barcelona and the rest of the country had their parties last weekend, but Madrid is this week.  It is one of the biggest in the world, with more than 1,000,000 participants (compared to 60,000 in Barcelona).  If you don´t think of Madrid as an LGBT tourist spot, you really should.

It’s Friday, 100 degrees, Madrid. It’s Gonna a Be a Fun Night

Friday, June 12th, 2009

botellonIt is the first really hot day of the Spring in Madrid today. The weekend will continue the heat wave. And, yes, a dry heat does make a difference.

Madrid is interesting when it is hot. My apartment is actually pretty cool in temperature, I have an interior unit without a lot of sunlight and it just hasn’t heated up that much. So, I, like many in the city who can, will work from home today. Since my day generally includes talking to India in the AM, Spain in afternoon, and the US and Paraguay later in the day, the schlep to the office on a day like this is a nice option. Not sure my boss likes that I take it, but its effing 100 degrees!

So when I went out with the dog to buy the paper and a pack of smokes, the streets were pretty quiet. There is a distinct difference in the shade. But tonight is when the streets will be alive.

I still remember my first time in Madrid about 6 years ago. It was a day like this, and I had arrived late in the afternoon by train from Malaga. I took a nap. The city streets were pretty empty at 7 PM, but when I woke up at 2 AM and looked out the window, the streets had come alive. Like rush hour anywhere else in the world.

Tonight there will be people out all over the streets. There will be botellones in the plazas. Botellones are (illegal) outside drinking parties, mostly youth, who are getting blasted early in the evening so that they can save their money to go to the dance clubs later at night. The clubs really won’t start hopping until about 4 AM. Restaurants will be full from 10 or 11 PM onward, filled with families, including babies and toddlers. The entire city will be out and strolling.

Fuencarral Street, a fashionable and hip street near the gay neighborhood is being turned into a pedestrian only zone and is almost done. So a lot of people will be out there too.

I will be with the crowds. Sweating, walking, bringing the dog, swigging a beer on a terraza and being thankful for a perfect madrid night like this.

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

Partido Popular (Center-Right) Gains in European Parliament

Monday, June 8th, 2009
Partido Popular leader Mariano Rajoy

Partido Popular leader Mariano Rajoy

Turn out was low by Spanish standards for the European Parliament elections, seen by some as a test of how well the government would fare in a deep recession.  The center right party, Partido Popular (People´s Party) beat the ruling Socialist Party by just under 4%.  The PP gained 1 more seat than before and only 1% higher percentage of the vote from the last EU election.  The PSOE socialists lost 5% and 4 seats.

Center Right parties won all over Europe in an election marked by low turn-out and fought more on national issues than European issues.  For many Europeans the Parliament is distint and misunderstood.

The PP leader Mariano Rajoy needed to do well in this election to continue support for his leadership, and the party is celebrating, though it does not seem to be a particularly impressive win, given the depth of the Spanish recession, whose unemployment is the highest of all the major European economies.

Socialist leader José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero lost nearly 500,000 votes from the last EU election, but does not appear to be fatally wounded by the election results.  It is the first victory for Mariano Rajoy in a national election agains Prime Minister Zapatero since 2000.

Apartment Hunting

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

I despise looking for a new apartment in any country.  It’s not so bad here.  There is a great site called www.idealista.com that has a wide selection of apartments and houses for sale, rent, or share.  It’s a little like Craigslist without the erotic services.  

It used to be, during the boom years in housing in Spain that you had to have a year’s worth of rent in your bank account to get a lease.  Those days seem long gone.  At the most now, someone might ask for 4 months.  This is in addition to any deposit or finanza they might require.  Fortunately now most only ask for one or two months of deposit and no bank account minimum.  

You do need to learn the different words for the different types of places.  I’ll try to help, though of course there are some crossover and people may use some of the words more loosely than others:

  • piso = a flat, apartment, a place with a living room and bedroom(s)
  • habitacion = room for rent, usually sharing and apartment
  • apartamento = usually a studio with enough space to have a bed area separate from a living area, but probably one room
  • duplex = a piso with more than one floor
  • atico = the top floor apartment
  • bajo = the bottom floor (or in the US, the first floor)
  • estudio = a studio apartment, one room.

I looked at an atico piso today where the roof is angled and at the highest point in any room the ceiling was no higher than 6 feet high.  Most of the space was as low as 3 feet high.  Great location, but I hurt my head three times just looking at it.

Spanish Unemployment Drops, Consumer Confidence Rises

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009
Unemployment lines in Spain

Unemployment lines in Spain

All the Spanish dailies are covering the story that after 14 months of increases in the unemployment rate, the most recent numbers have dropped by more than 29,000 people. Most give credit to the government´s stimulus package, Plan E, about which, as I´ve mentioned before, signs are ubiquitious.

Additionally the rise in consumer confidence is a good sign for the Spanish economy and the government has used similar language to that in the Unites States, saying that there are “green shoots.” There is hope that the economy has hit the bottom. Spain has been among the hardest hit in Europe and absolutely the hardest hit of the major European economies. The opposition party, the Popular Party, has said that the green shoots represent only the marijuana that the government is smoking.

All this comes just days before the European Council Elections.

A perfect day in Madrid…

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009

This is a wonderful neighborhood to explore.  From this spot you can see the Royal Palace, the Opera House, the Gardens, and some beautiful statues of the Kings and Queens of Spain.  It is a lively and crowded place most of the time.  I think it is even more beautiful in the evening as the sun is going down.  

The Eastern Plaza (Plaza Oriente) accross from the Royal Palace

The Eastern Plaza (Plaza Oriente) accross from the Royal Palace

68th Annual Open Air Madrid Book Fair

Monday, May 18th, 2009

This is one of my favorite events every year in the city of Madrid.  If you love books and reading and exploring through hundreds of stalls and booths for books of every type, this is a blast.  And the fact that it is outside during the most beautiful time of the year and located in the fabulous Parque del Buen Retiro makes it even better.  After digging through the stacks of books you can sit down in an outdoor cafe and watch the boat paddlers, dogs, and joggers in one of the world´s greatest parks.

This year´s event will be focusing on French literature and celebrating the birthdays of two world greats, Charles Darwin and the  Madrid-born writer and journalist Mariano José de Larra.

Here is some information in English about the event at the always handy EsMadrid.es:

El Retiro Park will be hosting the 68th edition of this open air fair in which over three hundred stalls lay out practically all the books available in the country. This year, the fair will also be organizing various parallel activities, the majority devoted to French literature.

Just like in previous year, for over two weeks the Book Fair becomes the place to find everything from the latest award-winning novels to specialized manuals. One of the most important cultural events in the city, every year it welcomes millions of visitors and offers an array of activities including direct selling, book signing with leading authors, talks and discussions.

Organised by the Madrid Association of Book Sellers, the Madrid Publishers Association and the Association of Book Distributors of Madrid, this fair joins other commemorations celebrated this year including the International Year of Astronomy, the bicentenary of the birth of Darwin, 150 years since the naturalist’s Origin of Species was first published and the bicentenary of the birth of Spanish writer Mariano José de Larra.

Many of the events are aimed at secondary school students, who together with the other atendees will have the chance to meet Álvaro Giménez, director of the Astrobiology Institute of Madrid, as well as Francisco Sánchez, Rafael Rebolo and Antonio Mampaso Recio, members of the Astrophysics Institute of the Canary Islands. They will also be invited to talk to Spanish scientist Juan Pérez Mercader, an expert on astrophysics and cosmology.