Posts Tagged ‘neighborhoods’

Madrid de los Austrias

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

925016I’ve been living the last seven or so months in the Center of the city, mere steps away from Gran Via between Plaza Calloa and Cibeles.  It’s a great neighborhood being well-connected to all the mass transport and within walking distance to almost all of the better known tourist areas of Madrid.  But it does have its downsides.  It is very crowded and as the summer months have worn on, some of the sleazier streets near my home have become rich in the odor of urine and the number prostitutes have grown like wild flowers.  It is also not the best neighborhood to have a dog.  My globe trotting fellow has gotten into the terrible habit of spending most of his walk time searching for discarded food like some rat weaving back and forth eating anything in his past.  It’s pretty disgusting.  

So we are moving to a new neighborhood today.  We have a larger apartment with a balcony and plenty of parks nearby.  It is still in the Center of Madrid, but in a slightly quieter area.  We will be within walking distance to the Latina neighborhood where Sundays are a blast.  The streets are full of terrazas and everyone is out for tapas and beer.

The neighborhood is called Madrid de los Austrias (or the Madrid of the Habsburgs).  This area is famous for its architecture and the growth of the Spanish Capital during its Golden Age.  The most famous construct being the Plaza Mayor.  The streets are narrow, the restaurants old, and the parks beautiful.  We will be right on the outskirts of the area, near the Royal Palace.  In fact, I’ll be able to see the Cathedral on the Royal Grounds from my balcony. 

I’ll let you know how it goes, and what the neighborhood is like as time goes on.

City Hall in Madrid to Contribute 500,000 Euros to LGBT Tourism Next Year

Saturday, July 4th, 2009

As I stated a couple of days ago, one of Madrid’s great failings, in my mind, has been its failure to promote itself as an LGBT destination.  Many claim that it is because of political and ideological reasons.  The City and the Community (province) of Madrid are fairly conservative politically, and the Popular Party holds the strings of power.  But Madrid should take advantage of its opportunity.  It is perfectly designed to be one of the best destinations in the world.  The night life, the Chueca neighborhood, and its general festive atmosphere make it a great place year round, but especially during the Pride Festival. 

El Pais reports on the week say that most hotels in the Centro are filled and that many are reporting that up to 80% of the visitors are gay.  As the paper says, it may be that the city has finally seen the “vein” of cash.  So in next year’s budget will be some 500,000 euros set aside to promote LGBT tourism.  Here is part of the story in Spanish:

Muchos se quejan de que la Comunidad y el Ayuntamiento nunca han promovido estas fiestas ni el turismo gay por razones ideológicas. Pero debe ser que los políticos madrileños han visto el filón, porque este año Comunidad y Ayuntamiento ambos han firmado un acuerdo de colaboración para que el año que viene haya medio millón de euros de dinero público con el fin de promocionar este tipo de turismo. El presupuesto con el que contaba este año la Asociación de Empresas y Profesionales para Gays y Lesbianas de Madrid, la encargada de este cometido, era solo de 30.000 euros.

También los organismos han colaborado en hacer un hueco a esta asociación en las ferias de turismo de numerosas capitales mundiales, aunque la promoción todavía debe mejorar. Casi todos los extranjeros con los que ha hablado este diario, como Patrick y Allen, una pareja de tortolitos checos, conocen el evento a través de páginas no oficiales de la Red, o a través de amigos, como en el caso de Luc Van Dam, un holandés cuyo ex novio español le mantenía siempre informado.

 

It’s Friday, 100 degrees, Madrid. It’s Gonna a Be a Fun Night

Friday, June 12th, 2009

botellonIt is the first really hot day of the Spring in Madrid today. The weekend will continue the heat wave. And, yes, a dry heat does make a difference.

Madrid is interesting when it is hot. My apartment is actually pretty cool in temperature, I have an interior unit without a lot of sunlight and it just hasn’t heated up that much. So, I, like many in the city who can, will work from home today. Since my day generally includes talking to India in the AM, Spain in afternoon, and the US and Paraguay later in the day, the schlep to the office on a day like this is a nice option. Not sure my boss likes that I take it, but its effing 100 degrees!

So when I went out with the dog to buy the paper and a pack of smokes, the streets were pretty quiet. There is a distinct difference in the shade. But tonight is when the streets will be alive.

I still remember my first time in Madrid about 6 years ago. It was a day like this, and I had arrived late in the afternoon by train from Malaga. I took a nap. The city streets were pretty empty at 7 PM, but when I woke up at 2 AM and looked out the window, the streets had come alive. Like rush hour anywhere else in the world.

Tonight there will be people out all over the streets. There will be botellones in the plazas. Botellones are (illegal) outside drinking parties, mostly youth, who are getting blasted early in the evening so that they can save their money to go to the dance clubs later at night. The clubs really won’t start hopping until about 4 AM. Restaurants will be full from 10 or 11 PM onward, filled with families, including babies and toddlers. The entire city will be out and strolling.

Fuencarral Street, a fashionable and hip street near the gay neighborhood is being turned into a pedestrian only zone and is almost done. So a lot of people will be out there too.

I will be with the crowds. Sweating, walking, bringing the dog, swigging a beer on a terraza and being thankful for a perfect madrid night like this.

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

Plaza Cheuca, Madrid's Gay Heart

Apartment Hunting

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

I despise looking for a new apartment in any country.  It’s not so bad here.  There is a great site called www.idealista.com that has a wide selection of apartments and houses for sale, rent, or share.  It’s a little like Craigslist without the erotic services.  

It used to be, during the boom years in housing in Spain that you had to have a year’s worth of rent in your bank account to get a lease.  Those days seem long gone.  At the most now, someone might ask for 4 months.  This is in addition to any deposit or finanza they might require.  Fortunately now most only ask for one or two months of deposit and no bank account minimum.  

You do need to learn the different words for the different types of places.  I’ll try to help, though of course there are some crossover and people may use some of the words more loosely than others:

  • piso = a flat, apartment, a place with a living room and bedroom(s)
  • habitacion = room for rent, usually sharing and apartment
  • apartamento = usually a studio with enough space to have a bed area separate from a living area, but probably one room
  • duplex = a piso with more than one floor
  • atico = the top floor apartment
  • bajo = the bottom floor (or in the US, the first floor)
  • estudio = a studio apartment, one room.

I looked at an atico piso today where the roof is angled and at the highest point in any room the ceiling was no higher than 6 feet high.  Most of the space was as low as 3 feet high.  Great location, but I hurt my head three times just looking at it.

A perfect day in Madrid…

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009

This is a wonderful neighborhood to explore.  From this spot you can see the Royal Palace, the Opera House, the Gardens, and some beautiful statues of the Kings and Queens of Spain.  It is a lively and crowded place most of the time.  I think it is even more beautiful in the evening as the sun is going down.  

The Eastern Plaza (Plaza Oriente) accross from the Royal Palace

The Eastern Plaza (Plaza Oriente) accross from the Royal Palace

A Book Store In English

Friday, May 8th, 2009

One of the things that I do miss in Madrid is finding a good book store that has a good selection of English language books.  There are several excellent and extensive book stores throughout Madrid, but the selection of books in English are not very good.  Still better than nothing.

I´ve heard of another book store near my piso that is owned by an American and her Spanish husband that sell mostly American books and have a lot going on everyday.  There are quiz nights, intercambios (opportunities for native English speakers and Spanish speakers to practice together), and coffee.  Check out the American book scene in Madrid at J & J Books and Coffee in the Malasaña neighborhood.

Madrid in the Spring

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

The weather has been outstanding.  I don´t know what the polution level is in Madrid (I suppose I could google it, but then again, so could you), but the sky is the bluest I have ever seen in a city.  And aside from the disastrous game against Liverpool which knocked Real Madrid from championship contention, it is gorgeous.

As I walk up Calle Valverde towards my Metro station on Gran Via, I can see through the canyon of buildings that throw shade everywhere to the brightness of the broad boulevard at the core of Central Madrid.  It is like walking onto a stage from the wings of a theater.  The energy jumps, the light is so bright it hurts your eyes, and the people move in a crowded dance on their way to somewhere.  The buildings are set against a beautiful blue and the terrazas are full of people drinking beer and laughing.

I wish you were here.

Great Walking Tours

Monday, January 26th, 2009

Central Madrid and the older parts of the Center in particular are wonderful places to walk and take in the sites.  Most of the area is flat and and easy to navigate (if often very crowded).  You will find wonderful architecture and sites that are famous and historic.  This Madrid walking tour by the National Geographic is a great one to visit some of the most famous sites without taking the same trail as everyone else.

Paella and Jamón in Madrid

Wednesday, January 14th, 2009

One of my friends from the States asked me recently if I´ve been overcome by a daily diet of paella, Spain´s most famous meal.

The easy answer is no.  In fact, I rarely have paella and since one of my good friends here in Spain is from Valencia (home to this wonderful dish), it could be said that I´ve never had good paella.  In fact, it is more likely that there will be a heated discussion of how the word is pronounced properly (at least by me) than to actually eat it. 

Much more likely in Madrid, you will find your most common meals in restaurants made up of ham, beef,  or seafood.  One of my favorite things to do in Madrid is to stop by a bar, order a beer, and enjoy some wonderful ham or other tapas.  The ham here is not like anywhere else in the world.  It is wonderfully flavored, textured, and a favorite among the Madrileños. 

I did have paella the other night for the first time in years and it wasn´t bad.  This was a black rice paella with the rice colored by squid ink and eaten in an empty restaurant with friends on the way home from work.  Not bad, and you´ll easily find all sorts of opportunities to eat rice dishes here in the capital, but for the best regional foods, stick to what the locals are eating and take a trip to Valencia for the fallas.

Perfect Madrid - An American´s Guide to Madrid, Restaurants, Night Life and much more

Friday, January 2nd, 2009

This guide will help you plan a perfect day - or week - in Spain´s capital city. I´ll tell you the about the great restaurants, museums, cafés, perfect walks, and hidden treasures of this paradise for tourists. As a foreigner living here, I can help you avoid the “guiri” mistakes.

I´m an ex-pat living here in Madrid after years of visiting and loving my time here.  You´ll find out about the things I love and cherish here, and hopefully you will add your´s.